In addition to working to have a seat at the table when land management policies are being discussed, the ICA has plenty to do outside, too, where climbers can be visible ambassadors of the community, where they -we- can show our care for the resource that is Illinois rock, prove our willingness to work with the land agents whose work resources are stretched thin, represent ourselves with a high standard of ethical behavior and concern for safety, and as courteous co-users of the land.
Fixed Anchor Initiative
An obvious safety concern has become apparent at the different climbing destinations in southern Illinois. The ICA, led by the Director of the Fixed Anchor Committee, is working with manufactureres and other resources to develop an inventory of fixed anchor hardware, as well as the tools to properly do the job of replacement. As the inventory grows, the ICA will notify the climbing community of the action plan. In the meantime, we’re making the Fixed Anchor Initiative, undertaken with the approval of land management agencies, our first project for which we are asking climbers to donate. Fixed anchors will be replaced and set with 3-3/14" x 3/4" stainless steel expansion bolts and hangers, for a longer use-and-safety profile.
Please visit the HOW page to make a donation to this very important project.
An obvious safety concern has become apparent at the different climbing destinations in southern Illinois. The ICA, led by the Director of the Fixed Anchor Committee, is working with manufactureres and other resources to develop an inventory of fixed anchor hardware, as well as the tools to properly do the job of replacement. As the inventory grows, the ICA will notify the climbing community of the action plan. In the meantime, we’re making the Fixed Anchor Initiative, undertaken with the approval of land management agencies, our first project for which we are asking climbers to donate. Fixed anchors will be replaced and set with 3-3/14" x 3/4" stainless steel expansion bolts and hangers, for a longer use-and-safety profile.
Please visit the HOW page to make a donation to this very important project.
Trail Maintenance
In accordance with our desire to demonstrate that climbers can be an especially good user-group to have around, the ICA is happy to participate in The Access Fund's Adopt-a-Crag movement. Climbers have worked with the guidance of local, state and federal land managers to mitigate and repair impact, and to improve conditions against future damage. In our policy and management plan negotiations, too, the ICA continues to have a voice -to influence- agency policies for use of our own 'backyard'.
In accordance with our desire to demonstrate that climbers can be an especially good user-group to have around, the ICA is happy to participate in The Access Fund's Adopt-a-Crag movement. Climbers have worked with the guidance of local, state and federal land managers to mitigate and repair impact, and to improve conditions against future damage. In our policy and management plan negotiations, too, the ICA continues to have a voice -to influence- agency policies for use of our own 'backyard'.
- Remember that your actions as a climber reflect on all of us, and influence how the public, land managers and private land owners perceive climbing and climbers as a valid use of the natural resource.
- Get the LOCAL LOW: respect regulations, including closures, and suggested guidelines for climbing in the different areas. Check websites, guidebooks, and talk to locals: not only do they know the best lines, they know the beta to keep the areas open. If you're a local, be informed, and care about what happens at your area(s).
- CLIMB STEALTH: Keeping nature pristine keeps it... well, natural. Off-trail travel accounts for the greatest environmental impact by climbers. Stay on trails. Protect plants from packs, pads, gear sprawl, and feet; stay on durable surfaces, such as, well... rocks. Check: before you leave, look around, pick up and pack out tape, spilled chalk, wrappers, cig butts and... whiskey bottles(?), even if they're not yours.
- SPEAK UP; SPEAK OUT: when the actions of others threaten access or the environment, let 'em know -sometimes we all need a little tap on the shoulder. Don't be a person who just climbs; be a CLIMBER (see above). Climbers, the environment and access are all interconnected; know how you fit in.
Here are some additional things to keep in mind...
- keep your dog on a leash; or better yet, don't bring Fido to a place where there can be conflicts with other dogs, horses, and the unexpected snake or other critter; if it is essential that your buddy comes with you (the canine one), then keep the leash handy, eh?
- leave the boom box at home; your 'right' to blast the tunes ends at my eardrums' right to not hear it
- don't hog routes, or tie up a bunch of 'em for your group all day; chances are, they're the more popular routes, and others have as much right to 'em as you do
- watch your language; offensive language (and other such behavior) is a typical first-line attack against climbers, and it can be the first reason land managers and owners start thinking about separating climbers' access from other user-groups'
Hey, I know these are more matters of personal choices and 'decorum', but they're valid issues when discussions come up with land managers and other user groups. The less 'little' stuff like this we have to deal with, the more we can focus our energy and efforts on the Big stuff that counts.
- Get the LOCAL LOW: respect regulations, including closures, and suggested guidelines for climbing in the different areas. Check websites, guidebooks, and talk to locals: not only do they know the best lines, they know the beta to keep the areas open. If you're a local, be informed, and care about what happens at your area(s).
- CLIMB STEALTH: Keeping nature pristine keeps it... well, natural. Off-trail travel accounts for the greatest environmental impact by climbers. Stay on trails. Protect plants from packs, pads, gear sprawl, and feet; stay on durable surfaces, such as, well... rocks. Check: before you leave, look around, pick up and pack out tape, spilled chalk, wrappers, cig butts and... whiskey bottles(?), even if they're not yours.
- SPEAK UP; SPEAK OUT: when the actions of others threaten access or the environment, let 'em know -sometimes we all need a little tap on the shoulder. Don't be a person who just climbs; be a CLIMBER (see above). Climbers, the environment and access are all interconnected; know how you fit in.
Here are some additional things to keep in mind...
- keep your dog on a leash; or better yet, don't bring Fido to a place where there can be conflicts with other dogs, horses, and the unexpected snake or other critter; if it is essential that your buddy comes with you (the canine one), then keep the leash handy, eh?
- leave the boom box at home; your 'right' to blast the tunes ends at my eardrums' right to not hear it
- don't hog routes, or tie up a bunch of 'em for your group all day; chances are, they're the more popular routes, and others have as much right to 'em as you do
- watch your language; offensive language (and other such behavior) is a typical first-line attack against climbers, and it can be the first reason land managers and owners start thinking about separating climbers' access from other user-groups'
Hey, I know these are more matters of personal choices and 'decorum', but they're valid issues when discussions come up with land managers and other user groups. The less 'little' stuff like this we have to deal with, the more we can focus our energy and efforts on the Big stuff that counts.
On the web at www.iclimb-ica.org or www.illinoisclimbersassociation.org Copyright 2007 All Rights Reserved
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The ICA supports and advocates for stewardship of the climbing resources available in our areas. Often in conjunction with The Access Fund, the ICA has engaged in trail maintenance projects (Adopt-a-Crag), development and construction of trails, construction of sanitary facilities and information kiosks at Jackson Falls (in cooperation with the USFS), and other projects still in development. The ICA is actively advancing positive relationships with land managers and working to secure and improve the climbing experience onward into the future. We seek to be proactive, rather than wait for something to create a threat to access.
We're all climbers and/or boulderers; we know that our 'community' is probably a little more individualistic and independent than most, and only reluctantly acknowledges a sense of community at all. Sometimes because of that, climbers have been easy targets for exclusion from various discussions and planning processes. It should be obvious, then, that it is in everyone's best interest to consider the successes of other user groups in making certain they're represented and accounted for with land managers. To that end, the ICA believes in and encourages conducting ourselves with a high standard for ethics with respect to our impact on the natural resources, and, bearing in mind that climbers comprise just one of many user groups -typically with high visibility when others are out there- we offer these guidelines from the Ethics Committee for your consideration.
We're all climbers and/or boulderers; we know that our 'community' is probably a little more individualistic and independent than most, and only reluctantly acknowledges a sense of community at all. Sometimes because of that, climbers have been easy targets for exclusion from various discussions and planning processes. It should be obvious, then, that it is in everyone's best interest to consider the successes of other user groups in making certain they're represented and accounted for with land managers. To that end, the ICA believes in and encourages conducting ourselves with a high standard for ethics with respect to our impact on the natural resources, and, bearing in mind that climbers comprise just one of many user groups -typically with high visibility when others are out there- we offer these guidelines from the Ethics Committee for your consideration.
Opie's Kitchen Update ( September 2007)
As many of you are probably aware, Crab Orchard National Wildlife Refuge (aka Opie's Kitchen/Devil's Kitchen) was recently closed to climbing/bouldering during the Refuge's Conservation Plan update/revision. During the Plan's update/revision period a handful of dedicated local climbers, the ICA and the Access Fund worked relentlessly through meetings with Refuge management, government letter writing campaigns and phone/email campaigns to promote climber's views on this issue. Unfortunately, in the release of the new Conservation Plan rock climbing/bouldering was prohibited. Although we regret the decision of the Refuge, we ask that the climbing community respect and obey their decision. If you enjoyed climbing at Opie's and would like to possibly climb there again, please stop by the Land Manager's office to politely let them know you respect this decision; however - the climbing community has lost a valuable resource at Crab Orchard, and we hope the Refuge management will consider climbing as a viable activity in their next Conservation Plan update/revision.
For more information on this issue contact Nathan Holmes, Bryant McDonnell, or David Chancellor.
